It’s been a week since my last post and this is the Part 2 of how I made that dress. And continuing the previous post, here, I will tell you the sewing process. For those who found this post by random and having no idea what I’m talking about, all I can say is; That girl is Galih, she is wearing a dress that I designed and made (together with 2 other dresses) as her costume in a dance theater performance called ‘Rojo/Merah’ by AKAR Dance Theater Company. Here’s some pictures of Galih wearing the dress on the stage.
You may check my previous post here, where you can find a complete background story about this project and also a the instructions of Galih’s dress pattern making.
In the previous post, I have mentioned that I made two versions of each dresses, first one for me and the second one for the performer. For this dress, I’ve documented the process of the first version, which made for me. And this is the result;
That is why I can only share a tutorial based on my dress. Don’t worry… It has only a few non-principal differences with Galih’s dress. They are explained in a picture below;
- Well this is a fabric problem. Galih’s dress using stretchy lace fabrics that has scallops edge and mine using a stretchy lace fabric without scallops. I’ll explain how I finished my edges in the ‘step by step’ part.
- My dress having a regular bottom hem, while Galih’s dress has 2 side slits. If you want those slits you can use the same slits process from this tunic dress by Corrine’s Thread, just make sure that you pick the straight stretch stitch on your sewing machine.
- One of the director’s revision from the original designs was a request to reduce the lace part from Galih’s dress. So, at the end, the lace parts was only applied to a small piece from the chest to shoulder (for the front side) and from waist to shoulder (for the back side). Considering the ombre knit fabric for the base color, I thought that was a good decision.
Ok. Let’s moving on to the sewing tutorial.
For this particular design, you will need 1.5 meter of knit fabric with basic color, and 2 meters of lace that stretch. Give yourself some time to read this article on How to work with stretch fabrics.
Once you get the materials. Go ahead and cut the fabrics using our previous post’s patterns. Read all the pattern notes carefully like; ‘on fold’, ‘2 cuts’, etc. So that you won’t waste any fabrics.
Take fabric from Pattern B (Front Knit) and Pattern C (Knit Front Lining), lay them right side facing right side, pin the top curve together and sew.
Trim the top curve like picture below to for a good curve finish. Flip it over and it will be our ‘Front Knit’.
Now take the lace cut of Pattern A (Front Lace). Lay it with right side facing the floor/table. Then lay the previous ‘Front Knit’ part on top of it, with right side facing the lace. Baste stitch the side edges to hold them together.
Take 2 cuts of Pattern E; 1 for knit & 1 for lace. Lay them with wrong sides facing the floor/table. Again, baste stitch to hold them together. That will be the ‘Lower Back’.
If your lace fabric have scallops like Galih’s dress, you can skip this step. But if your fabric has no scallops like my dress, take the 2 lace cuts from Pattern D, make 2 stripes with enough length and create a bias bound on each diagonal edges. Go to this tutorial by Rae if you never do bias binding. That will be the ‘Upper Back’ Part.
Lay the ‘Lower Back’ and ‘Upper Back’ part together with the right sides face each other and sew them together. There you have your ‘Back Side’ ready.
Lay ‘Back Side’ & ‘Front Side’ together with the right sides face each other and sew their edges except the neck, arm wholes, and (of course) the bottom hem line.
Make some stripes from the knit fabric, and again, finish the neck and arm wholes with bias bound.
Well, this step is optional, but we don’t want any bra straps to be visible when wearing an open back dress. You can wear it without bra, if you’re comfortable. I’m not. So I hand stitched a pair of swimsuit sponges bra right on the ‘Knit Front Lining’ (refers to Pattern C).
And finally, hem the bottom edge.
See, not a hard one to try right? Just like me, you don’t have to be a professional pattern maker. So… Give it a try!
In the next post, still from the same performance, I will share to you how I made this dress;